From smoky grilled meats to delicate dumplings, Turkmenistan cuisine fuses nomadic traditions with vibrant flavours and is a true feast for the senses
Bordering Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, and Iran, it’s no wonder that Turkmenistan cuisine, especially in its capital, Ashgabat, boasts a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene. When you try this Central Asian cuisine, you’ll discover that traditional food in Turkmenistan draws on its nomadic past and is often served family-style, reflecting the cultural importance of communal meals. Dining here is not just about the food, but about the exceptional hospitality and warmth that Turkmen culture is renowned for. Whether you're indulging in a hearty plate of plov or savouring freshly baked chorek, you're in for the culinary journey of your dreams.
Here are five must-try Turkmen dishes and where to try them in Ashgabat.
Shashlik (grilled meat skewers)
Shashlik, a popular street food of skewered chunks of marinated lamb, beef, or chicken, is believed to have originated with the nomadic Turkic and Mongol peoples who would cook meat on long sticks over an open fire. In Turkmenistan cuisine, lamb is most commonly used and is served alongside thinly sliced onions, chorek (flatbread), and a small side of fresh salad.
Where to try:
Altyn Cynar offers traditional Turkmenistan cuisine in a cosy setting, with locals coming here for the grilled meat (lamb, beef, and chicken) cooked over an open flame (and at your table if you choose). The meat is smoky and tender and best accompanied with a side of fresh salads and flatbread.
Chorek (flatbread)
Bread isn’t just bread in these parts; this humble staple called chorek holds immense cultural importance in Turkmenistan cuisine both as a symbol of the country’s nomadic roots and as a sign of hospitality. The tradition of baking flatbread using a tandyr, a clay oven, dates back centuries with the tandyr imparting a unique texture and flavour on the dough—crispy, slightly charred crust on the outside, while the inside remains soft and fluffy—yum! This baking method also helps retain the warmth of the bread, making it perfect for enjoying alongside hearty dishes like plov.
Where to try:
In some local restaurants, chorek can be mass-produced or made with shortcuts, but Shah-Sevan Restaurant is known for serving dishes using age-old methods which naturally extends to producing the best quality chorek. Here, the dough is hand-prepared and proofed traditionally, ensuring that it rises naturally, and then baked in a tandyr, which results in bread that is a perfect balance of chewiness and crispiness.
Plov (pilaf)
Plov is a dish that has deep roots in the ancient Silk Road. Its exact origins are debated, but it’s believed to have been brought to the region by the Persians and evolved over centuries. As a staple of Central Asian cuisine, each country in the region has its own variation of plov. The Turkmen plov is typically made with rice, lamb and sometimes beef, carrots, and onions, plus a blend of aromatic spices like cumin, coriander and saffron. The key to good plov? Layer the ingredients and cook slowly so the flavours will bathe happily together. To balance the richness of the plov you’ll find plenty of fresh flatbread, a side salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and herbs, and a generous dollop of yoghurt to tackle the spiciness.
Where to try:
Bagt Koshgi Restaurant serves an excellent version of plov which is prepared in large pots and served family-style.
Gutap (empanada)
Gutap is a filled flatbread, similar to an empanada or pie, and you may recognise it as neighbouring countries have their own version—in Turkey you’ll find gözleme and qutab in Azerbaijan. Gutap is either shallow or deep fried, and more traditional recipes contain a meat filling, spiced lamb or beef, although it’s increasingly common to find chicken. Veggie fillings are usually spinach or red lentil and a yoghurt dip is a good accompaniment to cool the spicy filling.
Where to try:
Although gutap is considered a snack food, it’s not unusual to find the more-ish flatbreads on restaurant menus as well as market stalls. AYÅžA Restoran is known for a stellar spinach version: deep fried and crispy, with a fresh filling, seasoned to perfection. We doubt you’ll stop at one.
Manty/Manti (dumplings)
No one has met a dumpling they didn’t like, and manty, a stand-out in Turkmenistan cuisine, is no exception. Manty is derived from the Turkish word for dumpling and these delicious parcels have been a staple in Central Asian cuisine for centuries. In Turkmenistan, manty are typically filled with minced lamb or beef, making them a hearty and satisfying meal after a long day trading on the Silk Road (or sightseeing). Manty can be found everywhere—in small, casual eateries or markets in Ashgabat where they’re usually made fresh to order—but if you prefer trying them in a more formal setting, they’re on most restaurant menus.
Where to try:
Chatma restaurant has a reputation for serving up authentic Turkmen dishes and a plate of their mouthwatering manty, especially the fried kind, is a winner. This 100-year-old restaurant sits next to a park so the outdoor dining area is pleasant, green and quiet.
Batyrma (summer stew)
Unless you’re a fan of the cold, summer is the ideal time to visit Turkmenistan—you’ll be blessed with warm weather and the country is full of colourful veggies. To celebrate, locals lap up a classic Turkmen dish like they would salad. Batyrma is a summer vegetable stew, similar to a ratatouille, and is tomato-based, full of fresh peppers, onions and whatever other vegetables are on hand and is usually eaten with warm chorek.
Where to try it:
Generally, batyrma is a vegetarian dish, but you can find it with meat or ask for it to be added. But stick with tradition at Üzüm Café for one of the best spinach batyrma in town. Don’t let the location (next door to a hotel), live jazz and impressive coffee selection fool you: the food here isn’t for a tourist palate and there’s plenty of traditional Turkmenistan cuisine to try; we recommend starting with batyrma.
Inspired to travel to Turkmenistan? Check out our latest tour, 22 Day Five Stans Unveiled, which takes in five countries in Central Asia: Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.